Honda CRF250R Rekluse Z-Start Pro Clutch Install
Updated: Jan 4
As part of my trail bike conversion of my 2004 Honda CRF250R I was able to locate a used Rekluse Z-Start Pro clutch for cheap. They are very expensive, but everyone swears they are the best upgrade to make a bike more trail friendly.
Thick Rekluse Clutch Cover Gasket (Part #420-212 from Rekluse) or Gasket Maker Material
First part of the install is to lay the bike on its left side so that clutch/transmission oil settles to the bottom of the engine and does not have to be drained. Also makes installing the clutch much easier as the ball bearings will not fall out. I used a jack stand against the frame to hold it off the ground on the left side of the frame. I also simply removed the foot brake lever, but you can also hold it out of the way.
Next removed the cover (8mm), the clutch springs (10mm) and the friction plates. Set aside the friction plates as they will be reused. Also make sure that the large washer between the inner clutch basket and the outer clutch basket is kept because it will also be reused. The bottom clutch basket will be reused so make sure there is not any serious notching. I had dealt with notching before and most likely will need to replace my inner clutch basket in the future (post on my clutch basket repair here).
Next install the inner clutch basket on top of the washer that was kept from the previous setup. Use the lock washer that came with the Rekluse and install the new nut that also came with the Rekluse. Torque to 54 ft-lbs and compress lock washer onto nut to hold it.
Install the stock friction discs and rekluse plates into the basket starting with a steel plate followed by 8 friction discs and the remaining 7 steel discs (alternating). Install the clutch assembly and line it up with the small half circle cuts in the outer clutch basket. Install the large c-clip ring, making sure it is fully seated.
Next install the stock throw out bearing and washer. On mine (2004 CRF250R) I installed the rekluse spacer, oil spigot, and then the spring carrier.
I decided to go with the heavier spring as I wanted more of a freewheel effect and my bike does tend to idle very high. My kit came with three different springs and I went with the heaviest.
My kit also already had all 30 ball bearings installed and not knowing which were tungsten carbide and which were steel I decided to leave them be. This setup should give me softer engagement at a higher RPM.
Next step was to place the plate with all the ball bearing on the clutch basket and install the desired spring (M150-M4 for me). Then install the top plate, add loctite 243 to all the T-20 torx bolts and install all the bolts.
I ran into an issue here as the manual calls for the installation of a thick gasket, but my used clutch did not come with one. Research showed it should be about .6mm thick and I found that I had gasket maker material measuring .7mm thick so for the time being I made my own gasket.
This gasket did give me the desired thickness, but its not the best at holding oil back... I contacted Rekluse and they sent me the correct gasket (Part #420-212) for $22 ($8 shipping).
For what it is worth I spent an entire day riding with the makeshift gasket and it held up really well and did not seem to leak much. For someone considering it in a pinch it will work. I am still messing with the engagement points. The clutch does work really good, but the bike feels like it wants to die or creep forward in 1st with the clutch out, engine at idle. It doesn't die... but feels like it wants to. Definitely will take some getting used to.