• KulAdventures

2006 Honda CRF250X Fork Rebuild

After my first two rides it was pretty apparent that my fork seals were leaking, being that I didn't know the history of this bike I decided to redo all bushings as well. Another option is to try cleaning them with a fork seal cleaner or similar tricks, but I was leaking bad and wanted to redo the seals, bushings, and oil anyways.


Parts:

-Fork oil 5W (2 quarts)

-Fork seal kit (oil seal, dust seal) (Full kit with bushings)

-Fork bushings

-Isopropyl Alcohol Spray (optional)

-Motion pro fork bleeders (optional)


Tools:

-Fork seal bullet

-Fork seal driver

-Fork cap wrench

-10mm socket and wrench

-Measuring cup


First step was to remove the forks from the bike, before doing so though I would suggest loosening the top fork cap with the wrench which they are clamped in the steering headset, makes it a bit easier.



Once removed from the bike count the number of turns/click out for both the rebound and compression adjuster, then turn them all the way out (counter-clockwise).


Now removed the already loosed fork cap and drain out all oil into a pan.


I am using a bicycle repair stand that I had in my garage to hold the fork, worked great, but can easily be done without a stand.


Now loosely tighten the fork cap back on and removed the bolt on the bottom of the fork (bolt that holds rebound adjuster) and compress the fork to expose the shaft and using either a special tool or just an open ended box wrench hold the shaft from returning into the fork. Using another box wrench remove the bottom bolt. Now pull off the bolt and the damper adjuster rod with it. You can now remove whatever you were using to hold the shaft and left the shaft back into the fork.


Now remove the top fork cap and pull out the damper assembly and spring, set aside in a clean area.

Remove the dust seal (pry lightly, its usually pretty loose) and then remove the retaining ring beneath the dust seal.


Using both the tubes in a slide hammer fashion pull the two tubes apart.


Now removed the bushings, back up ring, oil seal, retaining clip, and dust seal. Lay them down in order so you remember how to replace them.



Now go back to the outer tube (damper) and removed the cap using the special wrench (compression adjuster cap). Remove the fork cap and drain the damper into a pan. Pump the damper rod to work all the old oil out.



Next clean the spring, damper rod, bottom bolt, compression valve assembly, and tubes. I personally use isopropyl alcohol spray for any forks because it dries very quickly and doesn't leave residue. There are different products out there made specifically for this process, but avoid water based products that may leave a residue.


Fill the damper with 195ml or 5wt fork oil and push the bottom damper rod up and down to bleed air out of the damper. Now reinstall the fork cap.


Not go to the inner tube and install the oil seal and dust seal using the seal bullet (or grease covered plastic bag). Now add the new bushings and rings in the same order you removed them. Make sure to lube with oil to make installation easy and protect the seals.


Install the outer fork tube and use the seal driver to drive in the outer bushing and back up ring. Use the seal driver to install the oil seal in until it bottoms out. Install retaining ring and then push in the dust seal by hand.


Install the spring followed by the damper, loosely tighten the fork cap (damper). Now compress the shock and use a tool or open ended wrench to hold the shaft outside the bottom of the fork. Install the damper pushrod and center bolt, making sure the pushrod engages correctly (do not force). Tighten down the bottom bolt (51 ft-lbs).


Loosen the top fork cap and pour in 382ml of oil (or whatever amount you decide on based on your preferences and weight).


Install fork cap, reset the compression and rebound clickers to previous settings. Reinstall the fork onto the bike and tighten down the fork cap, prior to tightening the top steering bolts. Don't forget to bleed the top bleeders. I personally installed motion pro fork bleeders so a tool is not necessary to bleed the air out.





Here is a good reference video on the process by Rocky Mountain ATV

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